Patagonia has been on our mind a lot as of late since the Torres del Paine park suffered a major forest fire in early January. Fortunately, the park is now open as is Explora hotel in the park. There’s so much talk of Patagonia that people think it’s just one place and it’s really this wide spread, ultra diverse territory where you can make multiple trips. It’s not a once and done deal, as if Alaska and it’s beauty ever got “old”. For me, Patagonia is mythical. Epic. Its fabled images live as much in my imagination as they do in reality. Patagonia feels like the last frontier. A windblown land in the far southern reaches of the Americas with its closest continental neighbor being Antarctica.

First, let’s get our bearings. Patagonia covers the lower (southern) part of Chile & Argentina, encompassing an area roughly the size of Texas between both countries. Chilean Patagonia is really divided into two types of territories: Patagonia Insular includes all the fjords and channels along the Pacific Ocean down to Tierra del Fuego, and Cordillera Patagónica, encompasses the valleys and glaciers towards the steep Andes where Argentinean Patagonia begins. On the Argentine side, the valleys are a type of cold desert called the Pampa Patagónica.

Chilean Patagonia is composed of two sub-regions: the northern Aisén and southern Magallanes provinces. Recently, the boundaries of what has classically been considered “Patagonia” seem to be extending north to encompass the area from Palena up to Puerto Montt and the Lake District. I won’t get into this heated debate but for the purposes of this piece, we’ll include it since it’s essentially the jumping off point to head south. I also will be recommending my short list of properties to experience the region to the max in total comfort, and where we have our guests stay. If you’re interested in traveling, we can include these properties in any itinerary and set up all the details for you. Contact us.

Lakes District to Palena

The port town of Puerto Montt is the central hub for travelers heading to the Lake District near Puerto Varas, taking the famed Carretera Austral down into virgin eastern forests. Shove off on a boat here to the archipelago of Chiloé, one of the most unique insular cultures in Chile with dozens upon dozens of indigenous shellfish. While there’s not much to see in Puerto Montt beyond the Angelmó fish market and the airport, not too far away, the landscape will turn into rolling green pastures with serrated mountain peaks reaching into the sky in the distance with the cones of distant volcanoes. Here, the German settlers turned the wild forest into cultivated, productive land. Head towards the rugged coast with cliffs, beaches, and cloud forests and you’ll be treated to artisan fishing villages with painted dinghies which haven’t changed in decades. In some islands, electricity just arrived a year ago. During the summer, Humboldt penguins flock here. Chileans often refer to this as the end of “continent”. From this point, Chile crumbles into thousands of islands only to be navigated by astute sailors within its network of channels, sounds, archipelagos, majestic fjords, sapphire lakes, and the snow-peaked Andes in the distance–always.

My Pick: The Cliffs Preserve Patagonia

Set on a stunning 8,000 acres of private property where the Chilean continent ends southwest of Los Muermos, The Cliffs can only be described as magical; for me, it was life changing. This eco-luxury retreat brings you back to your natural centered place through long walks on the beach; the rhythmic sound of crashing waves; uplifting excursions to see Penguins; horseback riding with gauchos; even visiting the local fishing villages. I never tired of contemplating the beautiful sunrise and sunset every day with a constant view of the sea. Hike the perfumed bush; feed your body with the organic homegrown produce. When its time to slumber, crawl into the private hot tub or retreat to your cushy villa to cuddle up by the fire and hear the wind whisper and waves crash.

Aisén

This is one of the least populated and most dramatic areas of Patagonia in Chile. This thousand-mile extension is mostly unexplored by man-and I would add, fairly off the radar for most folks. Here, the snow-capped mountains, volcanoes, and azure lakes so dramatic and isolated that few humans have ever set foot on them. The fjords are untrodden, perhaps only an occasional tiny port or a fishing village. Cruise ships or yachts pass infrequently en route to the San Rafael Glacier, or making their way to/from Puerto Montt and Puerto Natales, 2-4 days at sea. Inland, the roads are gravel, in so-so condition, punctuated by a wildly fickle climate that changes on a dime. Much of the terrain is virgin and untouched, not unlike its geographic cousins the Alaska Panhandle, the Norwegian coast, and the Milford Sound in New Zealand. Apart from the mostly unpaved Careterra Austral, which rarely turns toward the coast, there are few roads in these latitudes. In fact, did you know that in this part of Patagonia over 70% is comprised of water? To get around, small planes, boats, and even helicopters are necessary. But those who persevere will be treated to the geography of their lives. You may catch glimpses of dolphins, whales, sea lions. You can catch the best trout of your life in the streams fed by snowmelt–and look up and see that glacier!  You can truly imagine how the earth was 10,000 years ago, and give thanks that these corners of earth still exist.

My Pick: Nomads of the Sea

This was by far one of the most mind-blowing, inspirational, and moving trips I have ever done (and it kicked off my obsession with helicopters). Given that I mentioned that Patagonia is primarily water and hard to penetrate, enter Nomads of the Sea. Nomad’s high-tech and intimate luxury ship sails deep into the virgin heart of Chile’s Patagonia. From there, take off in helicopter, jet boat, zodiacs , and other “toys” to explore the rain forest, mountains, and hundreds of pristine emerald lakes and rivers. Head out with resident marine biologists to meet with the dolphins; heli-ski down the side of a volcano; trek out to hot springs for a soak; or just be pampered by great chefs while overlooking millennium glaciers. While Nomads specializes in fly-fishing and nature-based adventures, on board there’s gourmet cuisine, fine wines, and creature comforts like the sauna and thalassotherapy baths. And yes, the novelty of the chopper never wore off, even though it felt like the family car to get around. So awesome.

Magallanes

The southernmost, largest and second least populated region of Chile, this province is a who’s who of geographical importance: Torres del Paine National Park, an UNESCO biosphere, Cape Horn, Tierra de Fuego Island, the Straigt of Magellan, and Chile’s Antarctica is included within this territory. This part of Chile touches the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, the third largest in the world, after Antarctica and Greenland. It is isolated from the rest of Chile by fierce storms and impassable mountains so that Magallanes can be reached only by air, sea, or overland from Argentina.

While many people envision the typical postcard pictures of jagged mountains veiled in clouds, electric-blue glaciers, emerald-colored lakes, and icebergs, parts of this part of the Chilean Patagonian are also arid, windblown Prarie land called the estepa. Here, the trees grow sideways with the incessant wind, lamb graze peacefully munching on yellow-colored grasses called coirón, and baqueanos (Southern gauchos) tend to the their flocks.

In the early 1900s, there was an important immigration from Scotland, Germany, and Croatia who founded Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales, setting up the sheeping industry with huge estancias.  Here, fishermen set off for days in the deep sea fjords to hunt the prized Patagonian toothfish (Chilean seabass), centolla (king crab), sea urchin, and conger eel. You can feast on jams and Pisco sours infused with the calafate berry, a wild indigenous berry between a blueberry and cranberry. Savor the best grass-fed lamb of your life. Kayak, hike, ride, bike, and take a couple days to hang out or base yourself from the Foodie Frontier town of Puerto Natales with great restaurants like Afrigonia and the sleek Indigo hotel. Soak up this amazingly diverse area where the sunsets at 11pm in the summer and comes up at 4:30am.

My Pick: Explora Patagonia

This exquisite refuge is located in the heart of the breathtaking Torres del Paine national park, an UNESCO biosphere. While this hotel had to unfortunately shut down while the fires were controlled, it’s now open and in perfect condition. The sweeping views of the turquoise Lake Pehoé and vistas of the serrated peaks of the Cuernos del Paine are from every angle of the hotel (they even carved out a peek-a-boo window in the Paine bathrooms next to the WC). From this base, exploring the 450,000 acres of the park is literally at your doorstep on horseback, by foot, by boat or kayak. The superb guides will take you to the glaciers, Torres, Valle del Francés or to see the rolling grasslands teeming with foxes, pumas, and graceful condors. One thing is to remember to keep a sense of humor here. Mother Nature will shower you wind, sudden snow, maybe a little hail, rain, bright sunshine, and then repeat.) The weather changes on the drop of a dime, especially in the summer time when the moist, warmer winds from the ocean collide with the glaciers and cause mini-storms. No biggie, you get back to your refuge, slip into the jacuzzi and a glass of bubbly somehow always finds a way into your hand.

My Favorite New Hotel: The Singular Patagonia

Opened to the public since November 2011, this brand new chic lodge is situated in the historic Puerto Bories, outside the little town of Puerto Natales. The first landing place of the settlers in the region, the handsome brick building built in 1915 is now a historical monument that has been expertly “recycled” using environmentally friendly architecture to transform the old frigorífico, cold-storage space which originally exported mutton to Europe. With primo location on the on the shores of the Last Hope Fjord, the spacious rooms all sport beautiful vistas of the water and snow-covered mountains in the distance. Jump off into the Torres del Paine Park, only an hour away, head to the Sierra Baguales for off road trekking, load up on their boat from their private pier to go cruise to see the glaciers. Visit the hotel’s private collection, a museum about the origins of the region, indulge in a massage, or in the evening, participate in their olive oil and wine tastings before dinner. What I most love, love, love about this hotel (besides the great digs, guides, and food) is that it’s truly all-inclusive even including alcoholic beverages beyond wine. Hello Calafate Berry Sours. Details, details.

Interested in booking your dream trip to Patagonia? We can take care of all the details from flights, to bookings with preferential rates, culinary add-ons, and pair it with the Argentina Patagonia in El Calafate or an exploration in Chile’s Wine Country and beyond. Contact us at info@lizcaskey or 904 687 0340.

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December. Again. This year, the months passed as if they were weeks, but it has been awesome. Busy. Productive. Fun.

I´m always in favor of New Year’s resolutions and defining my yearly goals to achieve, but before setting off on that exercise, I take a moment to reflect on the year that I have just lived. Save those memories and highlights.

This post is a ranking of what most impacted and inspired me in flavors, wines, meals, places, trips, books, and experiences. It was not easy to choose. Honestly, I feel so grateful every day to be able to make a living from my passion, work with my husband, and share that with with the world. There are so many options. However, after thinking about this for a while, of course, I came up with the finalists.

Three memorable meals in the US: 1) Rasika in Washington DC is by far the best contemporary Indian food that has tantalized my palate as of late. Best. Chaat. Ever. 2) Spoon Thai in Chicago. My brother took me here, and although they speak very broken English, I quickly learned that what’s spicy for Thai, is something I cannot hack (call the fire department my taste buds are ablaze…). I did have an epiphany though with their Tom Kha soup. 3) Hugo’s in Houston. If I lived in Houston, you’d have to peel me away from this place which serves authentic Oaxacan cuisine at brunch, from chilaquiles to mole. Two lethal margaritas on the rocks lead to a fuzzy afternoon and siesta.

Three memorable meals in South America: 1) Last year I celebrated my 34th birthday at Osaka in the W Santiago. It was a parade of one sexy sushi fusion roll after another, and tiraditos that melted in my mouth. Heaven. 2) One freezing cold June afternoon in Buenos Aires at Brasserie Petanque in San Telmo, I ate the best steak tartar in my life. This dish is why I will never be vegetarian in this lifetime. 3) Gardenia in Montevideo, Uruguay is a nuevo resto by a young chef couple from Spain & Brazil. Its fun, edgy gastronomy that rewrites the rules and pushes the envelope with its traditional yet innovative flavores and textures.

Best road trip: Crossing from Awasi in San Pedro de Atacama over the altiplano (by vehicle) to Purmamarca, in Northwestern Argentina. On our vuelta, we went through Salta and its stunning canyons and charming adobe towns of Cafayate, Colomé and Cachi. This landscape bewitched me and made me fall madly in love again with South America and it’s amazing diversity.

Best surprises: 1) My birthday present #34 from my husband. 2) Business trips to the States that coincided with seeing my entire family in Chicago, Pennsylvania, and Florida. At times, I miss having everybody so spread out and far away.

Biggest challenge: At the Epcot Food & Wine Festival, among the events, I had to prep and serve food  for 1,000  people at the famous “Party of the Senses.” This was in huge scale not only in food, but in navigating the mammoth industrial kitchen and managing a team of willing interns. I didn’t think too much, I just crushed it.

Favorite new cuisine discovered: Korean food is driving me crazy. I am addicted to it. Kimchi. Bulgogi. Kimbap. Ddeokbukki. Fortunately, Little Korea is only three blocks away in Patronato.

Best new cookbook: Only one? Darn, that’s hard. Ok… Alice Waters, The Art of Simple Food. The queen of the organic/fresh food movement shares her easy techniques to transmute ingredients and respect their noble origin. I love it because Chile has the most amazing produce (like California) which needs little to no doctoring. AND, I just got a huge mortero, mortar-and-pestle made from volcanic rock for Christmas. Forget the food processor, now I can grind it all up in the Stone, which Waters suggests. Yay!

Three words to describe 2011: Growth. Believe. Enjoy.

Three words to describe the culinary scene in Chile: Effervescent. Blossoming. Diversifying.

Three most memorable wines consumed in 2011: This was pure agony…but I did it. Chateau Haut-Bailly 2005; Chateau Cos D’Estournel  2000; Polkura G + i 2008.

Best new discovery in Chilean wine: Miguel Torres Santa Digna Estelado made with the País grape.

Favorite new ingredient: Mapuche pepper from the Canelo, cinnamon, tree.

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Oh, Salta. There you go again…showing up in my dreams. As if two trips already this year weren’t enough, as Kylie Minogue sang it, “I just can’t get you out of my head”. Visions of ruby-colored mountains, majestic cardon-covered canyons, ancient adobe towns, and sitting down to a table filled with empanadas salteñas and humitas en chala paired with some crunchy Torrontes. I woke up so enchanted and full of saudade to go back, that Francisco and I decided to share the vision with you guys. Anyways, isn’t Christmas a time of year to dream? If not of all the good things in the upcoming year (and all those yummy trips), then how about of presents, and places far away that aren’t so dang cold. Sweet dreams guys.

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Editor’s Note: Starting every Monday, we’ll be inviting guest bloggers to join us on Eat Wine to bring some fresh air, and voice, to the blog. Photographers, chefs, cooks, winemakers, writers, and generally speaking, people from different walks of life and even other parts of the world, too. This week, we’re kicking off the concept with an extremely talented local expat photographer, Kendal Montgomery, who’s decided to call Santiago home. These images are her vision of Santiago and what makes her love it. Look forward to hearing your comments. Enjoy!

I have always said that Santiago is so great because travel an hour west and you’re on the coast; go an hour east, and you’re in the heart of the Andes. But what about Santiago itself?

No need to go east, west, north or south, Santiago is a city that offers something for everyone. There is deep tradition mixed with fresh and modern. You can fill your days with excitement, or simply take in the Andes’ grandeur while relaxing in a park. Yes, Santiago is a wonderful place…

Celebrating in Plaza Italia after a win for Chile in the South Africa World Cup Games, 2010.

Chile celebrates 200 years.

A fruit and vegetable vendor at La Vega Central.

Sitting atop vegetables at La Vega Central.

Santiago would not be Santiago without the street dogs.

Enjoying downtown Santiago on Paseo Ahumada.

A shoe shining on Paseo Ahumada.

Paris Street in downtown Santiago.

The El Golf area in Las Condes, Santiago.

The Santiago Ballet Company at the Teatro Municipal.

A rare storm in Santiago.

*For more photos by Kendal Montgomery, visit her site at www.kendalmontgomery.com.

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Over Thanksgiving, we said adiós to turkey, cranberries, and Chile, and jetted over the Andes to the city of Córdoba in Argentina. Never heard of it? It’s the second largest city in Argentina with nearly two million inhabitants. Our destination wasn’t really Córdoba city, rather a charming Relais & Chateaux estancia called El Colibri, an hour north of the city, deep in the rolling hills called “Sierra Cordobese”. Paradise? You decide (we thought so!).

They call Estancia El Colibri an “estancia de charme”, enchanting estancia. It most certainly is. It left us smitten with the countryside, the people, the food, and the hospitality. This hotel, along with sister House of Jasmines in Northwestern Salta, is the dream, materialized, of a French couple, Raoul & Stefanie Fenestraz, who fell madly in love with Argentina. As they quote in various spots of their hotel, “The best thing one man can do for another is to share his dream.” It’s so true.

Besides being a luxury hotel, El Colibri is a working farm. Most of the fresh fruits and vegetables we savored, such as the tender lettuce and arugula, came from their organic farm. In fact, in our closet, I discovered a wicker basket and clippers with a note encouraging us to go harvest our own treats from the garden, such as fresh raspberries, artichokes, and the sweetest plums. The milk from their cow, Margarita, showed up in frothy lattes at breakfast, and was cooked down into the best dulce de leche on earth. The noisy chickens blessed us with free range eggs in our omelette every morning. The menu is truly farm-to-table with simply fresh ingredients. Although the lamb was from the property, the grass fed beef, pork, and wild rabbit were locally sourced. The succulent artisan salames, prosciutto, and cheeses hailed from the neighboring towns of Jesús María and Colonia Caroya, the latter being known for its Italian cured meats, which arrived with the immigrants int he early 20th century.

El Colibri is also a horse paradise. We adored horseback riding on the criolla horses with the gauchos and wandered off a couple afternoons with Juan, toward Jesuit missions and into the dried river bed where thousands of birds seemed to live. My spunky pony was called Pupi (pronounced Poopy), and made me chuckle every time I said his name, even though Juan swore it was of indigenous origin. El Colibri is ground zero for polo, a passion of the owners; two full-sized polo fields, several dozen trained polo horses along with all the necessary gear (and instruction from expert polo player Mauro). I decided to take my first polo class…fun but hard. More on that later…It was, however, breeding season and we witnessed several new, adorable foals.

The four days at El Colibri were absolutely relaxingly delicious. No work, no e-mails for the first time in nearly 14 months (yes, workaholics can be reformed). I read an entire book, The Help, in 2 sittings. I had a massage. We drank great wine. We savored two delicious asados, courtesy of grill master Pelado. We walked, we biked, we rode horses, we talked, we chilled out. And I even got my wish–two thunder storms. We never have summer t-storms in Chile with its dry Mediterranean climate. What excitement! I loved the drama of the clouds and lightening building in the distance as captured below behind the estancia.

A get-away so close, yet so far away (only 1.5 hours from Santiago and an hour from Buenos Aires by plane). The sensation that stuck the most, however, was that it was a home away from home. We left feeling like we’d been visiting friends and sharing their beautiful world for a spell. Inspiring.

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Love vino? Having an affair with Malbec or Carmenere? Does South America stir your imagination? This April 20-28, 2012 we’ll be embarking on our Signature Journey, Southern Cone Sampler, to sip our way across boutique gems and prestigious bodegas in Chile, Mendoza (Argentina), and Uruguay during the magical vendimia, grape harvest. Here’s a photographic essay to showcase this triple header and a sample of the places, characters, foods, experiences, and landscapes during our 9-day adventure. Won’t you join me? There are only a few spots left for an intimate group of wine-loving travelers.

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There’s been on-going petition by clients for me to personally host more weeklong tours. I have heard you all and shall deliver in 2012 with our Signature Journeys in Chile, Argentina, Peru, and Uruguay.

I am super psyched to announce a special trip to South America during the annual grape harvest in April (our fall) for wine lovers, foodies, and any travel aficionado. Fittingly called Southern Cone Sampler, we’ll taste our way across the wine country regions in Chile, Argentina, and Uruguay (the Southern Cone) for nine days of wining, dining, and good ol’ fun.  The ultimate triple-header.

We’ll kick off the journey in cosmopolitan Santiago exploring the city, tasting wines at a universe of wineries in nearly six different wine valleys. We’ll dine at my favorite tables all over Chile’s central valley and coast. You’re even invited to our private home for the welcome dinner!

Next, we’ll take a scenic (jet) ride over the Andes Mountains to Mendoza, a small, provincial city in western Argentina that’s all about wine. In this tierra de vino, we’ll explore the wine region to compare and contrast Malbec after Malbec at benchmark projects and with Mendoza’s father of terroir. Of course, we’ll feast on local cuisine from nouveau to classic parrilladas.

Since we’re all about the jet set, the show moves on to Montevideo, Uruguay, South America’s best-kept secret in wine (and in general). With coastal Montevideo as our base, we’ll sample everything from Tannat to Sauvignon Gris. Be prepared to make lifelong friends with vintners and be subjected to parades of local artisan cheeses and house-cured prosciutto, along with sublime steaks. Some of these Uruguayan wines are so local they rarely make it out of the area (except the bottles in my suitcase).

What else will we do?

…Nibble our way through three markets in Santiago as we devour fresh humitas (corn tamales), the iconic pastel de choclo, local cheese, and olives

…Hone your wine tasting skills (no experience necessary, only the desire)

…Sleep in charming boutique hotels and wine lodges

…Learn first-hand, at the source. Watching the grapes come in and the new wine in tanks and barrels.

…Sip South America’s flagship varietals like Carmenere, Malbec, and Tannat—but there’s so much more too!

…Participate in interactive tastings straight from the barrels and tanks

…Visit top-rated reference wineries like Achaval Ferrer and Clos Apalta; but also get to know the passionate owners of boutique projects

….Suck down glorious seafood on Chile’s coast that never hits ice—abalones, crab, oysters and the addictive razor clams (I will arm wrestle you for the last abalone).

…Wolf down an undisclosed amount of empanadas—usually homemade and from mud ovens

If you’re interested and want more information, or to sign up, please send me a message at info@lizcaskey for the details.

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Photo by Eduardo Amorim at http://www.flickr.com/photos/bombeador/

Having just spent 10 days in Texas, a true study in a very unique subculture within the United States, I was struck by the similarities between Texas and Argentina. They seem to be two “countries” (or perhaps, Republic is a better word) that are kindred spirits. Soul cousins at two opposite extremes of the American subcontinent. Here are a few that caught my attention:

Geography: Driving around the hill country of Texas, it reminded me of the arid scrublands in parts of Mendoza between the northern and southern “oasis”, where they plant vineyards and orchards. Parched earth dotted with thorny bushes, mesquite trees and pump jacks drilling for oil. If it weren’t for the irrigation, Mendoza would be a desert. Texas, particularly with this year’s severe drought, reminded me of that thirsty landscape with its vastness, the open spaces, and a wide horizon. Obviously, omit the Andes.

Cattle is King: Texas is a frontier state with huge ranches where cattle is raised for beef. Hmm, what other country springs to mind when you think “steak”? Argentina, claro. Beef is taken very seriously in Texas where rib eye, T-bone, even the ubiquitous hamburger are revered by locals. I won’t even touch the subject of the ubiquitous barbeque (more on that below).

Cowboys & Gauchos: Argentina has its gauchos and Texas has its cowboys. Essentially, their functions are similar. They are horsemen and ranchers, who herd their cattle from one field to the next. Both have an iconic, romantic notion and garb. Rodeos are huge in Texas, as is western Argentina in the Mendoza province. Heck, folks in Dallas told me about a glitzy affair where the cowboys, and cowgirls, get decked out in their diamond-studded jeans, boots, and bling.

BBQ is a religion: The phrase “Don’t Mess with Texas” should really be, “Don’t Mess with Texas Barbeque”. Want to spark a spirited foodie debate? Ask who has the best barbeque. There’s a list longer than you’ll be able to eat in this lifetime. In fact, Texas Monthly recently launched a Texas Barbeque iPhone app to identify the best spots in the state, convenient on road trips. On this particular trip to Houston, my clients took me out the “hood” to eat at Burns Bar-B-Q (previously ranked the best the month before). Sure, we were the only Caucasians in there, but man, those ribs were memorable as was the sauce, a key component to the BBQ lovin’. Like Texans, Argentines mean serious business when it comes to asados, barbeques. More than grilling up some meat, it’s an art, a social occasion, a way of life—usually involving a lot of alcohol too.

Gettin’ Saucey: Argentines love to slather their grilled meats with pungent sauces like chimichurri and the crunchy salsa criolla. I could hardly believe that chimichurri has gone so mainstream that you can now buy it ready made at Costco. However, in Texas, the preferred “fixins” for BBQ is sauce. It usually has a tomato-based component that can be mixed with vinegar, spices, fruit jams, soy sauce, here the only limitation is the cook’s creativity. As the meat, or poultry, crisps over the fire (infused with aroma of mesquite wood), the sauce is brushed on—or served on the side. Central Market has nearly a whole aisle dedicated to barbeque sauce. I confess to wanting to import Salt Lick’s flavors by the case. Any ideas on how to ship?

Other lesser similarities would be an intense love for fútbol—in Argentina that would be soccer and in Texas, American football, particularly college and high school. I noticed in a couple places where “pies” were actually empanadas, folded over turnovers that were fried and stuffed with fruit, or my favorite, peanut butter. I didn’t get out to the Texas State Fair in Dallas, which everyone said was a good time—especially to see Big Tex, the huge Ferris Wheel, and observe this weird phenomenon of frying anything and everything. Hmm, I wonder if the idea for fried Snickers bars took off in there…

Photo: by Mark Norman Francis at http://www.flickr.com/photos/mn_francis/

I had an awesome time in Texas. The hospitality balled me over. In fact, one afternoon in Houston I got semi-stranded with no car after a meeting somewhere near Buffalo Highway. In despair with no taxis in sight, a nice lady offered to give me a ride to the West U area. Turns out she had friends in Santiago. No, she wasn’t a pyscho (would I be telling this story otherwise??). She was simply kind, and I must have looked desperate enough to offer help (when I suggested walking, she burst out laughing). I gave her some South American wine recs in exchange for the ride. That type of congenial attitude though I encountered again and again. Just don’t make me drive on Texas highways again—e.v.e.r.

So y’all Texans that have been to Argentina, any other similarities you’ve found between the two countries? Feel free to chime in.

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Hi amigos. Color me happy, I am home after a whirlwind road show in the Southern US. GREAT trip. Beyond the cooking demos, classes at Central Market in Texas, and wine tasting events, I experienced a full-on tropical “monsoon” at Disney World in Florida (the Magic Kingdom is unfortunately not as fun in a day-long torrential downpour); got back in touch with my inner adrenaline junkie at the Tower of Terror (free-fallng in a elevator? Weee!); devoured Houston’s best BBQ at Burns out in the ‘hood; then turned around and did the famous Sunday Brunch at Hugo’s for Oaxacan cuisine (dangerous margaritas, as I discovered when the buzz ended and a hangover set in at 5pm). I almost conquered my fear of driving Texas’ gargantuan highways with big, BIG trucks in Dallas & Fort Worth. The latter is still terrifying, even with a GPS. I still prefer to walk, run, bike, take the metro, or be driven any day, anywhere. Sigh, after 11+ years, still cannot get the former New Yorker, and Santiago urbanite, out of me and an overall aversion to car dependency.

Well, now that I am back, we’ll be putting this blog back into its grove with more frequent posts. Sorry to have let y’all hanging…

Sparkling wines have been on my brain a lot as of late with the request of a couple columns where I collaborate in Chile. Honestly, we are going through a bubbly renaissance here (in more ways than wine), so skip the sticky-sweet apple cider, lethal pisco sours, or bitter fernet colas and have a dry sparkler.   What is better to celebrate the next two months of holidays, starting with Halloween, with sparkling wine? Yep, turn everyday life into a celebration. Better yet, explore them on your next trip here or contact us to hook you up.

Here’s my latest beat for LAN Airlines “In Wines” Magazine on this timely topic: South American Sparklers.

Save sparkling wine only for the holidays? Not in these latitudes. South American sparklers are booming in wine regions like Chile, Mendoza, and Southern Brazil where Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes bask in ideal conditions reaching a zingy acidity, perfect to produce world class bubblies. Although the tradition arrived with the European forefathers in the late 19^th century, today the local sparkling wine market is booming as wine drinkers understand sparklers are not relegated to just special occasions. The relatively high acidities and fresh feel of these wines make them supremely versatile–from simple sipping with artisan cheeses to richer combinations of seafood, poultry, and pasta. Order a glass or dive in for a real education on what makes these wines so alluring. Ching ching, as they say here.

Argentina

Domaine Chandon Argentina

The first South American subsidiary of the French Champagne house, Moët & Chandon’s, between 1957-1959 French oenologist, Renaud Poirer, conducted trials throughout Argentina to determine where they could make an old-world style bubbly. Mendoza won, with its stony soils and thermic amplitude, it became the first winery outside of France. Now, fifty years later, Chandon is the most important sparkling bodega in Mendoza, pumping out some of the finest sparkling wines from the extra brut to their special vintages.

Chandon runs daily public visits where you’ll walk you through the history and fascinating process of making a traditional champenoise method wine, from the base cuvee to the liquer de tirage, riddling, and disgorging the bottles through freezing the yeast cap, to the final product. Since sparkling wines pair with everything from appetizer to dessert, opt for the private food & wine pairing session where the resident chef pairs their Extra Brut, Nature, and Baron B. line of wines with clever flavor combinations.

Cruzat 

Want a true education in sparkling wines? Head for Cruzat. Highly regarded as Argentina’s sparkling wine expert, Don Pedro Rossell founded this operation in 2004 with Chilean partners Gastón Cruzat, Pedro Grand (former partner of Montes), Hernán Boher, and Fernando Riera Rawling. The objective? To create one of South America’s grand sparkling wines. Cruzat is one of the few bodegas in Argentina dedicated exclusively to producing Ultra Premium sparking wines in the traditional French method.

Located off a dusty road in Mendoza with sweeping views of the Andes, the focus is on quality, not quantity. The owners’ passion is palatable. Visitors are still received by winemaker Don Pedro himself where he’ll let guests taste the base wine components that will eventually become Cruzat. A labor of love, the tasting covers three wines, all made with varying percentages of Pinot Noir & Chardonnay grapes from single vineyards: the dry nature with its toasty notes;  a classic smoothe brut; and the seductive rosé, with hints of berries and toasted Authentic, hand-made, heartfelt wines. Private visits only.

Chile

Undurraga

One of Chile’s traditional wineries dating back to 1885, Undurraga has reinvented itself with new lines like the top quality still wines like the T.H. (Terroir Hunter) and a variety of sparklers that run the gamut from the perennially popular Demi-Sec to the citrusy Brut Royale made in the charmat method, and the highly regarded Brut Supreme.

Undurraga is easy to visit from Santiago, located in Talagante, only 34 miles away. While the winery receives visitors every day, if you want to sit down to savor their sparklers, book ahead for a private tour and select your bubblies. See the magical process of making sparkling wine, walk the verdant 19^th century park designed by renowned French landscaper George Henri Dubois, and visit the historic subterranean cellar to see the impressive arches reinforced with cal y canto, lime and egg white.

Miguel Torres 

In 1979, Spanish winery owner Don Miguel Torres arrived in Curicó, acquiring a small winery and becoming the first foreign wine investor in Chile. An innovator in Chilean viticulture, when it comes to sparkling wines, Torres’ Reserva de Familia Pinot Noir Brut is considered among Chile’s finest by wine connoisseurs. Elaborated in the traditional champenoise method with only Pinot Noir grapes, fine bubbles blend with a seductive, fresh fruit notes in balanced, lip-smacking wine. Torres continues to trail blaze with the recently launched the Santa Digna Estelado, a ground-breaking sparkling rosé made from the traditional país grape, sourced from all organic farmers in the Maule valley.

Visit Torres in Curicó, a short hop off from other winery circuits in the Colchagua, to dine at their gourmet restaurant. The meticulously curated menu pairs these sparklers by the glass with dishes like squid stuffed with king crab. Can’t make it to the winery? Fortunately, Torres has a wine-themed restaurant in the upscale El Golf neighborhood where you can try all their wines by the glass.

 

Brazil 

Casa Valduga

An hour from the bustling capital of Porto Alegre in Brazil’s southernmost state, Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil’s wine country, the Vale dos Vinhedos is located in the rolling hillsides of the lush Serra Gaúcha. Nestled around the town of Bento Goncalves, many wineries focus on sparkling-style wines with the cool mountain climate. Casa Valduga leads the pack and is devoted to mastering the champenoise winemaking method, known for its fine 130 Brut. Founded by Italian immigrants who arrived in the late 19^th century in the region, today the third generation of the Valduga family continues to make the wines and was the first winery to erect an impressive visitors center for guests. In addition to the winery, Villa Valduga has two on-site restaurants marrying local gastronomy with house wines and the pousada, winery guest house, with 24 rooms. Deepen your knowledge of the unique terroir with a tasting course in the eno-boutique or simply sip your zesty, yeasty Brut.

In Wines Magazine is available only on LAN Airlines international flights in business & first class–a vacation in and of itself!

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This week I am on a flash “trip” at home in Santiago between my latest viaje in Argentina and upcoming three-week US tour starting this weekend. More on that at the end of this post.

Traveling like a fiend for business this past year has made me truly understand, and appreciate, the phrase,“There’s no place like home”. As I go from one destination to the next, one airport to another, I started to really reflect on what home means to me; what makes a place home. Does it depend on family and friends? The place itself? A feeling? I would say all of the above plus some creature comforts that you miss by the end of a trip.

I should qualify that while I have become endeared with homecomings from trips, I certainly have an insatiable wanderlust that penetrates the depths of my heart, and has, since I was a little girl. It’s something I cannot shake, I won’t get over EVER, as it’s part of the essential fabric of my being. And I am thankful to be able to travel so much since I know that it fundamentally changes me, for the better, with each and every trip.

That being said, here are five things I totally relish about being home in Santiago de Chile right now:

Cooking

In my business of culinary & wine travel, there is certainly one amazing meal after the next. By the end of a week, I am basically c-r-a-v-i-n-g a big bowl of stir-fried veggies or a huge green salad. Wine? I’ll pass. I love eating out until I have done it to the point of saturation. I am a cook. I start to get antsy if I cannot chop an onion for a whole week or make a pot of stock. I have even pleaded with hotel kitchens to let me clean the spinach for my salad. I need to have my hands in the ingredients. My weekly ritual of eating and cooking heavily involves Santiago’s vibrant fresh markets like La Vega. I miss my caseros who give me the best produce to transform, like alchemy, into wholesome meals whose fat content, exact ingredients, and final texture I can completely control. It is a luxury when you’re on the road to have a home-cooked meal. But more than eating by myself at home, it’s also knowing that at lunch and dinner, I sit down with my husband to share. That is truly the taste of home.

Not All Beds Are Equal

Let’s face it, as humans, the home may be our larger “nest” but bed is where we recharge our bodies every night. Not all beds are made equal. Comfort from the mattress itself to fresh 400-count Egyptian sheets, a cool, silent bedroom, and good blackouts are a must. While I am lucky to stay in mostly deluxe hotels with great beds, it’s still a hotel. Your own bed is a safety zone, much like the blankey we had as kids (err, well I did at least!). There’s something reassuring that feels so good when crawl back into it. I, for one, sleep like a baby that first night back.

Well-being Every Day

While I religiously follow Bodyrock workouts every day in my home gym, on the road, I get pooped and they become more intermittent. An early, full day of activities or meetings, followed by a lunch with wine and lengthy dinner, I get really tired. Going for a run seems, somehow, very secondary to another 30 minutes of hitting the snooze button. Once I get home and am back in my routine, even though my hours are the same, I somehow effortlessly wake up at dawn to workout. I get to see my amazing acupuncturist every week. I feel vital. That’s not to say that I don’t feel awesome when I travel. It’s simply a different stimulation for the mind and soul.

Reflection

One of my daily habits is to wake up early, meditate and read. It’s one of my sacred moments of silence. Of reconnecting with something larger than myself. I don’t like being rushed in the morning either. I need time to pull myself together to confront the day and be mentally ready to crush it. In these moments, I often have insights into the experiences I just lived on the trip. In the midst of travel, you’re in a perpetual state of sensory overload—new sights, sounds, tastes, smells, textures, people. It can be overwhelming–or mostly exciting. Then you arrive home and it all settles. All of a sudden, there’s an AHA. Perhaps it emerges as a new direction I want to take in life in general or business, a blog post (umm, like this one?), a product, or something I now comprehend on a larger experiential level. A shift in consciousness. Something that would have been impossible to understand without going through the process of that trip and coming out on the other side.

People

When I am on the road alone, or with clients, and leave my husband at home with our cats, I suffer. We are very united and for long periods of time (anything over a few days), it is trying and I feel like I leave half my heart at home (I do…). Talking on the phone twice per day is not the same. It’s also not the same to maintain my friendships through e-mail and get togethers every 3-4 months, which seems to have been the case as of late with my schedule (working on that!). Part of what makes home is the people. Your family, friends, pets, caseros, even the characters in your neighborhood like the organ grinder on Sundays or the whistling dude who washes everybody’s cars on Parque Forestal. People are what make a place. The more I travel, while daily life can be different on a physical level, we all experience the same things as human beings. Above all, we want to be accepted, loved, supported, and have a place to call home.

Details on my US Road Show

So back to my upcoming USA road trip since some of you are asking. I will toot my horn for two seconds. After a couple days to see family in Saint Augustine, Florida, I will be a chef at Disney’s Epcot Food & Wine Fest. I would LOVE if you guys who are in the Orlando area could join me on Thursday, October 6 and Sunday, October 9 for live culinary demos (quinoa salad) and pairing with Emiliana Orgánico’s delicious wines. If I have not met you, please come and introduce yourself. I will be tickled pink!

Next stop is Texas, as “y’all” know, one of my favorite states in the US. I will be back at Central Market’s cooking school kicking off a South American Entertaining & Wine Pairing Class where we’ll be “traveling” through recipes, wines, and dynamic presentation through Chile & Argentina’s wine country. We’ll be pairing local appetizers from Chile, Argentina, and Uruguay with the lush wines from Torrontés to Malbec to Chilean Syrah. Classes are: October 10 in Austin andOctober 12 in Houston. There are a few seats left, so sign up soon at links above. I would love to see you all! There will be lots of delicious food, wine, and fun.

In between Central Market gigs, I will be hosting private client events with some of our favorite repeat travelers and their friends. In Dallas, I’ll be hosting a talk with our local partner, Epicopia about the Culinary Signature Tours to South America for small groups that I am personally leading in 2012 in Peru, Chile, Argentina, and Uruguay. Hope you can all join in. Please drop us a line if you need more information about any of the events. Hasta pronto!

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