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The Uruguayan Riviera: Punta del Este

February 8, 2010 by Liz Caskey

Punta.

That is, Punta del Este.  Just call it “Punta” to be cool and in the know like all the Argentines, Uruguayans, Chileans, Brazilians, and international jetsetters who flock there each summer from December to February.

It’s the glamour puss coast where the elite come to play with their toys: shiny yachts, Miami-style luxury high-rises overlooking the azure sea, manicured gardens with European-style mansions, and hot, bronzed beauties gracing the sands. Akin to the St. Tropez on the (real) Riviera and the Hamptons in the States, while you can chill with supermodels like Naomi Campbell in José Ignacio or stock up on Gucci, Punta is really all about the beach. Amen.

The golden, fine, sandy beaches, stretching for nearly 40 miles, are the draw. Turquoise waters, some rocks for scenic texture, beautiful homes clinging to the shores, and the green pastures in the background form a vivid beach mosaic. I was seduced by the allure of its beaches (and nearby wineries). One summer I had to get away from the frigid waters of the south Pacific Chilean coast. The thought of swimming in the ocean with no rip tides or limb-numbing temperatures was really becoming foreign to me (Viña del Mar’s ocean is like swimming in Half Moon Bay near San Francisco).

As an American girlfriend told me, “Liz, it’s very east coast style beach”.

“Ahh, east coast like the Jersey shore of my youth?”

“Yes, and,” she continued, “there are lots of awesome restaurants, beautiful people, sand dunes, cute villages.” Add in one boutique hotel and I was in–and to celebrate my birthday in late January I may add.

So after hitting the wine country to drink some Tannat, we headed for several days of R&R in Punta Piedras, between the now very chic fishing village of José Ignacio and La Barra. We slumbered in Posada de Piedra, the most exquisitely decorated boutique hotel we’ve stayed in for ages. We felt like we were crashing with wealthy friends with an oceanside estate tucked away among green pastures and aromatic eucalyptus trees, with the glimmer of the sea in the distance. Only 3 minutes away to being oceanside.

The days in Punta were how I like to spend my vacations: wake up (late, no 6am alarm please); have thick-as-tar coffee and medialunas with dulce de leche in the sun; head for the beach; find a cute lunch spot with grilled fish and cold beer; take long siesta on beach (reapply SPF); come home recover from sun (add tan-enhancing lotion as necessary); dress up and head out for cocktails and dinner. Repeat next day.

We jumped around between José Ignacio with its gorgeous lighthouse and wild, rolling waves; La Barra’s chill family-oriented ambience, and Manantiales Bikini beach scene where massages and pick-up volleyball seemed to be happening simultaneously all the time. When not lounging, people were surfing, jogging, walking, biking, leisure at its best during the day. At night, make reservations for dining, that was the entertainment. However, as popular, crowded, and exclusive as Punta can supposedly be, even in the height of the season, we never thought it was overwhelming. At least where we were in Punta, farther out from the city scene, there was space, sand, relaxation, and enough people to feel like it was summer.

For all of you Punta-bound readers this summer, I’d like to share a teeny preview of our upcoming Eat Wine Guide (Uruguay) slated to debut in 2010. This list is by no means exhaustive and does not cover all the great eats, especially in places like José Ignacio or Punta proper (the idea is buy the new guide!). And if you haven’t been yet, seriously, what are you waiting for? I wish I had discovered its cool beachy vibe years ago. Oh well, I am now back to being an east coast beach goer. Remember though, the action is from December-February to get the real Punta experience.

Cactus & Pescados (Manantiales):

Just across the road from Mar de Verdes, for a more restaurant-y lunch, arrive early to stalk out your spot on their sunny terrace overlooking Bikini Beach and the Emeralds coastline stretching up towards La Barra. Locals swarm here at lunch time to savor the local brótola, a flaky whitefish similar to grouper, brillantly seared and served in creamy sauces with tiny  shrimp and mussels. They also serve up finger-linking good chipirones, tiny fried squid, served with a tangy pimiento homemade mayo. Perfect washed down by a cold beer. Slather on the SPF, tanning on the terrace is not optional.

Medialunas Calentitas (La Barra):

Believe me when I tell you to get there early or be prepared for a never-ending line. Crowds form at Punta’s most popular bakery for, what else?!, dozens of sticky sweet medialunas, a type of local croissant. Order a frothy cortado, espresso cut with steamed whole milk and cop-a-squat at the picnic tables. Or take them to go, for the beach or your deck, naturally.

Mar de Verdes (Manantiales):

Yummm! An unassuming whitewashed snack shack on the corner of Route 10 at Bikini Beach in the heart of decor-conscious Manantiales (super cute!). They serve up  cappuccinos,  sweet treats, and energizing zumos, fresh-squeezed juices like carrot-orange-fresh ginger. Stock up on delicious ciabatta sandwiches like roasted eggplant with goat cheese, sundried tomatoes and arugula or the local sandwich with the works, chivito (steak, cheese, bacon, tomato, egg, roasted peppers, tomato, onion, lettuce, mayo). All the fixin’s for a perfect picnic on the beach.

El Abrazo (Manantiales):

On top of a hill amid a eucalyptus grove, this young couple, Lucía Sosa Dias and Federico Gasparri, constructed this minimalist gem to run a cool yet homey restaurant on the first floor and their home upstairs. Owners of the hipster café, El Beso, in Ciudad Vieja in Montevideo, the only way to sum up their offering is: summery, fresh, creative, and attentive. Unlike most of the meat-heavy menus in Uruguay, here the star ingredients are born from the sea in dishes like ceviche, crab, local fish like brótola or mero, in addition to braised meats. Start with a daiquiri made with fresh fruit and watch the sunset on their oriental style terrace where they build a bon fire every night. Romantic, intimate, be sure to leave room for the dark chocolate “volcano”. Local phone: (042) 774 140, be sure to get good directions. Not on the main road.

Parador La Huella (José Ignacio):

I LOVE this place, in fact, it may be my favorite hang out in Punta/José Ignacio. The location is primo, nestled among the sand dunes and million dollar homes of José Ignacio. Once a rustic fishing village now discovered by the jet set crowd, every day and night there is a scene happening at La Huella. First, don’t think about coming without a reservation–several days in advance. You will want to ensure yourself a piece of this cool, sleek al fresco beach club with the waves crashing nearby. Settle into the cushy couches and order a clericó, sangría-type drink, or killer vodkatini. Tasty sushi and simple, fresh gourmet fare rule. The owners recently launched this year project 2, Parador La Caracola, part of a private island club on Laguna Garzón, La Caracola, only accessible by boat. Sweet!

Garzón (Garzón):

If you’ve come this far and want to indulge in a foodie orgy, why not head a little farther inland down a scenic dirt road to eat at celebrity chef Francisco Mallmann’s legendary Garzón restaurant (also a boutique hotel). Well appointed in gaucho chic style, tables on the brick patio are set with white linens and sparkling crystal glasses. As you embark on your culinary odyssey, village dogs and kittens scamper under the table and trucks rumble down the dusty roads. Let Mallmann walk you through the bible of grilled meats, sublime gnocchi, succulent braised lamb, and other delectable bites. Ojo, opulence and good taste come at a cost–a meal for two may run US$250.

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Picnic Perfect

February 5, 2010 by Liz Caskey

Photo Credit: GibaN.

The last time I went on a picnic was a very hot afternoon in California. Visiting our friends living in Napa, we first journeyed north to Calistoga to soak and rejuvenate in their famous mud baths. After, we decided to extend the afternoon with an impromtu picnic in the municipal park surrounded by tall, shady oaks. On the way to the park to stock up on provisions, we stopped by Cal Mart, a little boutique supermarket. We filled our cart with prosciutto, artisan cheese, rustic bread, fresh fruit, a mesclun salad, dark chocolate, and a tasty Syrah from the Alexandre Valley. Of course, we forgot the most important thing, a bottle opener, and had to return. A picnic with no wine? I think not.

We settled under the shade of a craggy century-old tree. We grazed, sipped, laughed, napped, and spent a lazy afternoon without a single worry nor hurry.  This kind of picnic, for me, is synonymous with summertime hanging out. Since we are in the peak of summer in Chile, with a climate very similar to Napa, I am suddenly being seized on a daily basis to take my meals outside. Picnics are genius: combine tasty food, casual dining, amazing nature, a little vino, and exquisite company. In Santiago, there’s pretty much a plaza a few blocks in any direction, and if you really want to get into nature, a 30-60 minute drive east, west, north, or south, will yield Andean vistas, green pastures, and maybe even, a sandy beach. Perfect for copping-a-squat.

As I plan out this weekend’s picnic, here are a few tips to share to pull them off effortlessly:

Simplicity, The Golden Rule: First, consider where you are having the picnic, climatic factors, and the feasibility of eating the menu you are envisioning. Are you thinking on a beach? Well at least in these latitudes, it can get pretty damn windy and things like sand and napkins get airborne. Or are you heading to a park with infrastructure, grills, running water, and a picnic area to stage a traditional barbeque?

For a wild-ish setting like  a beach, think of menu items that are ready-to-eat, i.e. wrapped sandwiches. It’s not the appropriate time to show off all that cheese you smuggled past SAG (customs) on your last trip to France, unless you’d like it “rolled” in sand instead of ash.

If you are dealing with tables or grass, Mediterranean tapas or pick-ats for easy noshing always work and many times only require a trip to the corner deli. Stock up on easy-to-serve options like serrano ham, Spanish potato tortilla, chewy rustic bread, marinated olives (stuffed with blue cheese, yum…), roasted peppers, perhaps some Brie. In Chile, sweet corn tamales known as humitas, prolific in the summer, can be bought warm and served with a pre-made Chilean Tomato Salad.  For dessert, fresh seasonal fruit is more appropriate than chocolate that can melt. If you insist on the chocolate (I know, I know), keep it in the cooler. Like any meal or party, I recommend choosing a theme so as to not arrive with a mismatch of flavors and textures.

Be Prepared: As a former caterer with pack-out lists longer than my arm, I can definitely tell you that preparation is key to having a good time on any picnic. You avoid crisis situations like getting to the middle-of-nowhere and realizing there’s no bottle opener for the beer or wine.  While that cute wicker basket that Dean & Deluca is hawking may look as fashionable as your Louis Vitton bag, a cooler is WAY more practical to keep the drinks cold and the food fresh. Who really wants to drink a lukewarm rosé and warm aioli? Ick.

When you pack out the cooler, don’t forget to first pack the ice, then the wines and drinks, after the meat, then the mayo and cheese. Bread and lettuce should go on top to avoid direct contact with the cold causing a “burn”.

Beyond food, don’t forget a thick blanket to sit on, utensils and plates, napkins (cloth is classy and ecologically friendly), a sharp knife and cutting board, a bottle opener (I have mentioned this three times, there’s a reason!), a lighter, salt and pepper, paper towels, and a trash bag. If you really want to out do yourself and score points with your buddies, or date, bring the crystal glasses and a little flower vase to cut wild flowers for the table. The glasses feel so luxurious in the middle of an abundant setting like nature. Details, details.

So now all you have to do is recruit your friends, and listo. Happy picnicking!

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February 3, 2010 by Liz Caskey

Posted in Books & Gadgets, Liz's Picks, Places, Wines, food, restaurants | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a Comment »

Real Life…Interrupted

February 1, 2010 by Liz Caskey

At this time of year in Chile, Santiago becomes a ghost town and everybody heads to the coast, far flung latitudes, or the countryside on vacation. In January and February while Chileans head off on summer vacation, we are in full swing with our business. I relish the city: exquisite dry heat and cool nights, no traffic jams, pool parties, cocktails on terraces, and no traffic jams (did I already mention that? It is a biggie).

On my recent Holiday visit to the US, which did not feel like vacation since I was remotely working most of the time, I really gave some serious thought as to when travel for me (anywhere) is truly vacation. What sets it apart, how am I different, how does it feel. And then I made a pact with myself and my husband that no matter what, we would always take a real vacation every year. Read on…

“Here I am in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, land of my childhood and snowy cold from December-March. This is my first trip home to celebrate Christmas with my family since I moved to Chile nine years ago. Everybody here seems to be asking me how my  “vacation” in Pennsylvania has been so far. I try not to refrain from outright laughter. This has not exactly been what I qualify as vacation. We are  visiting, i.e. enjoying family, friends, and holiday cheer but this is a far cry from vacation, for me at least.

On this trip, I started to really analyze why a visit does not feel like real time off. What does constitutes being “on vacation”? It’s a fair question considering our primary business is planning luxury food and wine trips for other people (errr, their vacations!). The first tennat for any trip to be a vacation is 100% disconnect. Yes, that means shutting down and disconnecting from everything. Turning off my Crackberry (better idea, bury it), putting on the “out of office” email responder and voicemail. I don’t even consider turning on the TV. I conveniently forget about being “on line”, even if just a little bit. Internet is a drug—and an addictive one.  I don’t worry about taking any calls, answering any emails, and delegate all pressing issues and projects in our office. This has to happen to really, really enjoy vacaction. I am a self-confessed workaholic and this all has been a very hard process to assume that 2 weeks per year, I need to let go, turn off my work brain, and go away where nobody can find me. Well, obviously my husband, and maybe my Mom in the event of an emergency. If I don’t make that distinction and keep checking email, even on the beaches of Turkey, what’s the difference between that and my business trips to cool locations like Buenos Aires? Really?

On vacation, I realized I also need to forget about my family, friends, cats, and general life responsibilities for a long period (more than a week). I only need to focus on pleasure, my wants and needs, and having a sacred non-business space with my husband (who’s also my business partner and photographer for this blog). The benefits are clear: relaxation and a mental break. But they are not immediate. Going “off” modern life has a withdrawal component. The mind will protest and create a kazillion reasons why not. At first I would freak out. What do I do without a blackberry? Is life possible? It is, I assure you. By the third day, I usually forget and don’t even care. It’s the only way I can get the necessary distance from my life as usual. So I guess that’s it. In essence, vacation is leaving my daily life aside for a little while to gain another perspective of me. The Liz without a business, a blog, work, engagements, responsibilities, and stress. Ironically, pulling this off for two weeks straight takes a hell of  a lot of leg work prior to departure!

Personally, I am into two types of vacations. Give me total relax any time on some beach in a far-away paradise where I don’t have to move from the hammack if I don’t want feel like it. The only vital decisions may be: what massage I’d like today at the spa; reading my book; catching some rays by the pool;  definitely a sunset walk on the beach; what time should I do yoga;  what and where can I eat; when is it siesta (length unimportant); and some frothy cocktail or cold beer to chill out. Tranquility and not a care in the world by the sea. Only my husband and a very comfy, well-appointed hotel (or house). The options are unlimited but usually, in my world of “need that for yesterday”,  I work on perfecting the art of doing nothing. That is serious therapy for a habitual multi-tasker.

The other type of vacation I adore is adventure-driven; urban or nature. On these vacations, I find the disconnect in putting my physical and mental limits to the test trying new experiences in a foreign region, country, or city. It could be a hard core trek over a glacier in the Torres del Paine park in Patagonia; powering over mammoth sand dunes in a 4×4 in Lencois Maranhenses in Northeastern Brasil; or diving into a new city where I don’t speak the language. It doesn’t matter, the thirst of exploration drives me forward (and good sign language).

This past year, we organized a record amount of vacations for other people.  To be honest, when it is my turn to go on vacation another critical component is that I want to be on the other side of the table. I want to be served, not think about the details, not worry about the logistics, have no need to think about what’s next. Just be present, sit back, and enjoy. I let the local experts guide me to the best colloquial places, yummy joints, and get a handle on what’s most interesting. And not a single drop of news from the office. Only time together for me and my husband. Those two weeks are sacred, untouchable. They are the sap that nourishes our souls during the whole year and gives us the juice to return with our batteries charged. Ahh…”

Published in the Chilean (Spanish-language) magazine, Revista Placeres, in January 2010.

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My Ultimate Fat-Burning Breakfast

January 27, 2010 by Liz Caskey

While I love most food, my daily diet (read: eating habits) these days is very  “clean”. Mostly fruit, vegetables, nuts and seeds, lean meat, healthy fats like olive oil, and low GI carbs (quinoa, sweet potato, beans). No more wheat or dairy unless it is a special occasion. Junk food? Negative, if hummus qualifies, and the occasional wasabi peas.  In early November returning from my wine class tour in the US, I did something to my lower back picking up a case of wine. The damage was sealed on the 15-hour flight back. By the time I arrived, the pain was so bad I could hardly sit or stand. My new back specialist said, “No gym or activity for one month. Only physical therapy”. A death sentence. I was a full-blown gym junkie, cardio addict, exercisaholic. How the hell was I going to mitigate all the calories? I freaked out. And then I decided that this was an opportunity in disguise. My body was hurt, tired, and telling me to back off in a not-so-subtle way.

So I listened to it. I decided to put the old 80-20 rule to the test. Eighty percent of the way your body looks is what you put in your mouth. The other 20 percent is physical activity. I will admit it. I was skeptical. Despite that, I went ahead and tried it anyway. Basically I followed an elimination diet (no sugar, wheat, dairy, alcohol, caffeine). Not bad at all, although I missed the taste of wine during my dry month. Parallel to that, I found some convincing evidence from nutritionist JJ Virgin, nutritionist to the stars, that a morning shake was the cornerstone of people with low body fat. Off I went into the world of breakfast shakes—and I have never looked back.

Today a shake is my surefire breakfast. I LOVE it. It fills me up until lunch time (4-5 hours) at a shot. And I am sure it is one of the reasons I feel great—and am looking my best too.

So what goes in these babies? I want to share my recipe and break down why these are so darn good for you. You can procure any of the ingredients at Whole Foods (or the like). For you expats, I bring a lot of these products back to Chile since the health food here is still expensive, limited, and has a lot of junk in it if you read the labels.

1 cup frozen fruit such as berries or low GI fruit

1-2 scoops high-quality protein powder

1 tablespoon pysllium husks

1-2 packets stevia

1 tablespoon healthy fat: coconut oil, flax, raw almond butter, even avocado!

1 cup cold water

8-12 ice cubes (depending on size)

1 mighty Blender that can handle smoothie concoctions

Fruit: I buy fresh berries (in season right now) in copious amounts and freeze them. Strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, blueberries. I also love kiwis and peaches. Best flavor though is berries. Fruit is full of antioxidants, vitamins, a shot of carbs, a little sugar. If looking at a traditional breakfast these “carbs” would replace your bread basically, but way better quality and alkaline too!

Protein Powder: This is key. You MUST eat protein at every meal or be starved. And don’t think you are fooling your body. It is so smart it will just eat your muscle and tank your metabolism without it. The whole point is to burn fat so you need to become your body’s ally and at least 20g of protein is your friend in this shake. Although I am lactose intolerant to cow’s milk, I can do whey protein. I also like rice protein and there is hemp protein in the US. The best tasting by far is whey. Look for whey that only has micro-filtered or ionized isolates and concentrates and not filled with a bunch of crap: artificial sweeteners, colors, etc. The only sweetener that’s ok is stevia, made from a natural plant. I love the Rainbow Light brand.

Pysllium Husks: Most Americans, and now Chileans following the US trend, eat a pathetic amount of fruits and vegetables and don’t get enough fiber. One way to trick yourself to feeling satisfied is to thicken up your shake with this fiber. You get 8-10 grams per serving (your colon will thank you) and it makes the sensation of satiety stick with you. Be sure to drink a lot of water during the morning since it will expand in your stomach.

Stevia: Cannot live without this. I remember two health food clients on a Culinary Tour several years ago turned me onto this. I am forever grateful to them. If you have Sucralose or Aspartame, toss it. Go natural with Stevia. It is made from a plant in South America so it is not bad for you, fake. I find it sweetens things perfectly.

Healthy Fats: I love Coconut Oil. Although high in fat, it has medium chain fatty acids that actually are vital in promoting fat loss, especially in the abs area (seems to be working, hello six pack!). Raw almond butter is also a favorite (I bring it back or make my own from scratch). You can use flax oil or seed. Also try avocado or even ¼ cup light coconut milk too for a change. It also promotes “fullness”. Do not fear fat. Your metabolism needs the right kind to burn, burn, burn.

Water & Ice: Your shake is going to get creamy and smoothe when you hit the magic button so don’t go adding any milk, yogurt, or juice. Totally unnecessary and your body will just take those simple sugars and whack your blood sugar level, which is not good for your fat-burning metabolism. Trust me. The ice also thickens it up and makes it taste like a milkshake. Healthy milkshake for breakfast. I can deal!

Blend Away: Blend for at least one minute. Stop to jog machine as necessary. Be sure to have tall glasses and straws on hand. You should get two tall glasses, about 3 cups. Drink it all and take your time. Enjoy. It tastes AWESOME.

It is amazing but the shake has about 400 calories and is so nutritionally balanced…for that same expenditure you would probably get half of a plastic Egg McMuffin full of poor quality protein, carbs, and trans fat.

Try it and let me know!

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My Top Five Wines for Poolside Sipping

January 22, 2010 by Liz Caskey

With this heat as of late, I have been feeling very lethargic. The only form of mid-afternoon relief seems to come in finding (friends) with a nice pool get-up and packing a picnic to hang at their house. The lazy days of summer have officially arrived. While I tan my scarily white body,  I have enjoyed sipping on these cool juices. When packing out, don’t forget the hodge podge of sun and wine things to take along in your tote: copious 50 SPF sunscreen (you’ll get tan, trust me, there’s a whole in ozone down here!), hat, fly swatter, corkscrew, crystal glasses, and an ice bucket.

 

Rosé

Rosé used to be my least favorite wine variety—until I tried Domaines Ott from Provence one very, very hot day in Paris. Dry, spicy, and fruity with grapefruit and apricot notes, but not sweet, its chilled temperature and perfect acidity tasted remarkably fresh. Chile and Argentina are producing better rosés that now shy away from the “White Zinfandel”style. Thank god. The best rosés I have found are the very French-style from Aquitania in Chile, or Melipal in Mendoza.

Torrontes

This wine is synonymous for summer, for me at least. It is served very cold and has vibrant acidity, a light body, and a little pizazz from jasmine flowers to orange aromas. It goes down as easily as water and usually doesn’t cost much more. Most Torrontes average from US$10-15 in the market. Try Susana Balbos Crios, O. Fournier’s Urban Uco, or if you can find it, Altavista’s Premium Torrontes.

Sauvignon Blanc

This green-skinned grape originating in the wine lands of Bordeaux gets its name from sauvage (wild) and blanc (white) referring to its indigenous roots in Southwestern France. Now cultivated across the world from New Zealand to California and Chile, a good example is usually, dry, crisp and refreshing. I am smitten with Chile’s Sauvignon Blanc coming from the coastal valleys like Limarí, San Antonio, and the new Colchagua Coast. Producers like Maycas and Garcés Silva really redefine zesty—and yummy. Now if I could get that poolside with some oysters or goat cheese…

Beaujolais

Go Gamay Noir, Beaujolais’s beloved grape. This region in France, north of Lyon, pumps out young, fresh red wines with barely 9% alcohol and a light body. There’s something youthful about them: fun, full of fruit and vibrancy, and only meant to be savored and consumed each summer. It also is an ideal party wine to beat the heat since 1. You serve it cool and 2. The price tag makes it quite palateable.

Pinot Noir

You know, usually I am down for a Pinot with just about any food or wherever I am. It is a chameleon-type wine. Revered as the “white” of the reds, its ability to combine with anything from steak to seafood is only rivaled by Champagne, in my humble opinion. I like Pinot –a lot, but am specific in what kind it is. If it is aged, complex and hails is a Grand Cru from Burgundy or a fine Oregonian variety, chances are, I won’t be drinking it chilled nor poolside. However, if it is a happy-go-lucky fruity version, you bet. In Chile, I love Villard’s Pinot Noir Expression, Matetic Vineyards, and Alazán from Kingston, all in the Casablanca valley near the sea. Serve them slightly cool, not chilled. On second thought, maybe I should drink these in the shade.

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I HEART NEW YORK

January 20, 2010 by Liz Caskey

New York, New York. I can fully say that I love this city much, much more now that I don’t live in it nor work in the investment banking world. Definitely the rat race was not conducive to living it up in the city—and enjoying it at the same time. While my trips to New York are always a mixture of business and pleasure, I most relish reconnecting with friends, shopping, museums, and, let’s face it, eating and drinking. Life seems to especially revolve around the last two. So many options, so little time.

These are some of my favorite eats during my last two trips to the City over Halloween and the week before Christmas, two particularly fun times to be in town. The theme on these trips seemed to keep hitting: sandwiches, pork, and Asian. I also picked up that there seems to be an increased interest on casual gourmet—cool digs with high-end food without the pretension and crazy expensive price tag. I also loved the BYOB scene, sandwich shops like Porchetta and Xie Xie, and seemed to have this obsession with noodles in any form: pasta, Pho, ramen, soba, you name it.

So I heart—and eat–New York. Until my next trip in June.

Momofuku Noodle Bar (East Village): I bet David Chang is one cool dude, if I ever met him in person, because his restaurant is a rockin’ place where minimalist design, almost Scandinavian in feel with the natural wood, gives a humble noodle bar an edgy vibe. Every time I walk in this place, there’s a line, commotion, elbows bumping into one another as diners slurp their way to the bottom of a deep bowl. The crowds come, for what else, the food! I will rearrange any day for an excuse to chow down on the addictive steamed buns followed by slippy ramen with porkbelly. Eat your noodles while the Pixies blare in the background and the open kitchen hums away. Kick ass!

Congee Village (Lower East Side): Congee is a porridge-like dish that the Chinese love, made with anything from lobster to fish blood (let’s leave it there, wasn’t a fan, especially with said fish blood version). Certainly I was one of the few Caucasians in the dining room and I had to channel my adventurous self as we chowed down on many dishes that most Westerners would shy away from like sauteed duck tongues with sugar snap peas; salt-and-pepper squid; or the most sublime green beans tossed in some garlic-laden sauce (is licking the plate in public allowed?). It is BYOB but be prepared to wait.

Porchetta (East Village): Adjectives like tender, moist, flavorful, heavenly seem to best describe this pork-centric gem off a quiet East Village street. Pretty much a decent hole-in-the-wall, the draw is the pork (forget the vegetarian items!). Yep, slap it on there–sliced pork between thick bread. Essential. Tasty. Have napkins on hand to wipe the grease away or have it dribble down your chin. Note apart, very cute Lobster Roll place, Luke’s, was just starting up across the street and a cigar room next door. Love the EV!

The Bourgeois Pig (East Village): Small, intimate, plush with a barroque-meets-burlesque decor, this hipster hang out in the East Village is the perfect spot for some delicious French wine, nibbles, and ethereal fondue (chocolate or cheese). Super-knowledgeable waitstaff will help guide you through the wine and food options. Monday nights all wine bottles are half off (yeah!). Super laid back for a chat, apparently it is cool enough that Madonna on her last NY tour with Brazilian man, Jesus Luz, rolled up. They had the cheese fondue, of course.

L’Ecole (Soho): The student-run dining room of the prestigious French Culinary Institute, this has got to be Manhattan’s best kept dining secret in terms of price-quality ratio. I was really blown away. Think a five-course meal is out of the question for lunch? Think again—and it won’t blow a hole in your wallet. With a daily rotating menu, start out with the duck confit on an escarole salad with a poached egg. Then tuck into perfectly poached artic char in a clarified broth. The sommeliers know their stuff and you can watch the hustle and bustle of Soho through the picture glass windows.

Joe’s Shanghai (Chinatown): I dream about the crab soup dumplings at this place, especially on rainy, chilly nights. I know they have an extensive menu but quite frankly, I have never gotten past the dumplings. The dough is so tender. Just one bite to slowly slurp out the savory steaming liquid. Then polish off the dumpling by dousing it in a vinegary-soy solution, washed down with a cold beer. If I could manifest instant delivery anywhere in the world, this would be it.

Jackson Diner (Jackson Heights): I had heard about this place for years and finally on my last visit, staying with my girlfriend Anna in this hood, I hit their buffet lunch my first day in town. Let me specify that that afternoon I was d-y-i-n-g for real Indian food. I was looking for the spicy variety, not dumbed down for Western weeny palates, that was so pungent that the spices’ aroma would penetrate my clothing. The buffet was ok, not the best food ever and decor fairly lackluster. But it killed the craving and after 15 hours of airline grub tasted good. On the way home, I stopped next door to visit Patel Brothers, THE Indian supermarket.  And then on the way home, discovered an Indian pastry shop selling sweets like coconut burfi. You know, I could live in Queens, seriously.

Sripraphai (Woodside): This has been on my restaurant bucket list for years and I never made it out to Woodside. It always seemed like an expedition; a trip to the end of the world.  That, somehow, Woodside and the 7 train were quite possibly farther from Manhattan than Patagonia. Since I was finally hanging in Queens in December, I got my wish. It was casual, cheap, spicy, hot, fragrant, and went down all too easy. This is was the place the NY Times gave 3-stars. It was delicious but somehow I walked away disappointed; it hadn’t blown my mind. Too much expectaction? I guess…I was looking for something like Renu Nakorn in Norwalk, CA (LA) that apparently was the best non-westernized Thai outside Chiang Mai. You know what, forget it. I need to go to Thailand to get the real reference.

Kasadela (East Village): Super cute, young, and hip traditional Japanese fuses with small plates and killer Sake. I must share my ignorance in the Sake department since prior to this dinner, I had assumed it all tasted like hot lighter fluid. We started with the Japanese style chicken wings (do lick your fingers please) followed by tuna sashimi on a seaweed salad, homemade creamy tofu, and other scrumptious bites whose names I cannot remember. The sake was memorable and citrusy, smoothe, balanced. I am a convert now. The best part: food, sake, and tip was US$45 for two people. Cheap eats do exisit in Manhattan. Really.

Xie Xie (Hell’s Kitchen): After a meeting at Food & Wine, I asked one of the editors where she’d go for lunch in mid-town. I kinda got a chuckle (hmm, tourist traps or delis?). Then she remembered a great new place with the disclaimer, “but it’s 4 avenues away”…which in NY-speak means nobody in their right mind is gonna walk 8 avenues round trip for a freaking sandwich. Well, I did. And this was an Asian sandwich shop and was quite possibly the tastiest thing I have sunk my teeth into for lunch in months. The Vietnamese BBQ beef redefined umami with basil mayo and carrot kimchee. Modern and young with pop design, had I really had the munchies, I would have scarfed down the Chinese pork bun version too. Next time. WORTH THE WALK PEOPLE.

Tadka (Midtown East): Indian restaurants in NY are a dime a dozen but when pressed to meet a girlfriend around 50th street on the East Side, we found this cute place with only about 6-7 tables. The food was clean (healthy), amazingly bright in flavor, and very friendly service. The naan was fluffy, the lamb saag meaty and not at all greasy, and the daal perfectly prepared. Lunch specials were a steal at US$10. Definitely a find in Midtown for eat-in or take away.

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Chilean Summer in a Tall Glass

January 15, 2010 by Liz Caskey

Ahhhh…it’s great to be back in Chile. As many of you have noticed, and commented, yes, I did take a break from the blogging world for a month over the holidays. In fact, I headed up north to spend a nostalgic Christmas, the first time since I moved to Chile in 2001, in the winter wonderland of Lancaster, Pennsylvania from where I hail (with some other stops mixed in like NYC and frigid Florida). It even snowed 12-inches the day of our arrival, just to ring in the holiday cheer. I must say though, a month was about as much cold as I could handle. I am thankful to be back and basking in the golden rays and hot temperatures of Chile.

Summer is my favorite season in Chile for two reasons: the sun and the food. I love the fact it is light until 9:30pm most nights (versus 4:45 pm sunset on the East Coast), cool in the a.m./p.m. and toasty during the day; and the harvest of fruit is beginning to come in abundantly. In the summer time, Chile turns into a veritable fruit paradise: scores of perries, peaches, cherries, apricots, nectarines, strawberries, and melons invade the markets, ferias, every produce stand and corner shop. Even street vendors hawk plump bags of fruit on street corners at traffic lights for a luca (US$2).

One of the quintessential summer drinks is mote con huesillo, husked wheat with sundried peaches. Somewhere between a beverage, snack, and dessert, this is the sign that summer has arrived with carts and stands setting up around the city to quench people’s thrist. The recipe is simple: sundried peaches are slowly simmered in water with a little sugar to rehydrate and plump the up, making a sweet juice. This liquid is chilled and served ice cold. The mote is soaked and then cooked like rice. It is also sold in markets ready-to-eat and has a toothy texture and nutty flavor. To put the drink together, place a peach and scoop of mote in a tall glass. Ladle the chilled liquid to the brim and listo. Sip and spoon your way to some relief from the mid-afternoon heat. Chileans crave this beverage the way Southerners reach for Iced Tea when the mercury soars.

In fact, it is so popular that in the downtown of Santiago, and towns/cities up and down the Central Valley, carts set up to sell this beverage like popcorn to passersby.  If you are the capital and want to hit quite possibly the most famous mote con huesillo spot, head for Club Hípico to see Ramón Palacios. After all, he’s the rey, king, of mote con huesillo. Every year from September through March, Ramón sets up his stall on the corner of Rondizzioni and Mirador streets, close to the main entrance of Santiago’s majestic horse racing track. He’s garnered a significant following of faithful patrons and serves over 60 liters daily to soccer players, taxi drivers, and jockeys from the nearby track. For that reason, he’s rightfully known as the king. Wherever you get it, this drink is Chilean summer served up in a glass.

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Santiago’s First Food and Drink E-guide is Born!

December 8, 2009 by Liz Caskey

Wooohooo! As many of you may know, I have been working diligently on the newest member of the Liz Caskey Culinary & Wine Experiences’ family during most of 2009: our new foodie e-guide series, Eat Wine, the first of its kind in Chile, and in South America. We are t-o-t-a-l-l-y pysched to announce that the inaugural guide to our beloved capital, Santiago de Chile, is now officially launched!

Yes, Eat Wine Santiago has been born!

In Eat Wine Santiago, I candidly reveal all of Santiago’s best restaurant picks from joints to gourmet spots and favorite local sandwich haunts; where to buy all types of ingredients from ethnic to organic produce; my favorite bars/cafes/markets. In addition, I give you a hearty orientation to Santiago, its neighborhoods, some savvy travel tips, a VERY comprehensive wine list and culinary dictionary (hint, print and take it with you!) to help you hit home runs every time you dine out.

The mission of Eat Wine Santiago is simple: to help YOU navigate the capital’s amazing food and drink, and in the process tap into the authentic pulse of Chile’s gastronomic culture. This 117-page guide is the GO TO list of where I take my best clients, editors, family, and friends when they visit Santiago–and much more! And in case you’re wondering, I did vet all these places incognito as a paying customer and am not paid to promote ANY of them. Some of them didn’t make the cut for quality, service, or vibe, or are recommended for certain reasons. Let the truth be spoken–you want, need, and deserve, the inside scoop on dining in Santiago.

Can’t wait? To read more and access the GUIDE, here’s the direct link:

http://eatwineguides.com

And if you sign up for our free monthly newsletter, we’ll give you a preview of the guide to check out before buying.

Once again, here’s how to hook it up: http://eatwineguides.com

It’s time to eat and drink better in Santiago; won’t you join me to show you how? Salud!

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10 Reasons Why I Love Living a Mediterranean Climate

November 30, 2009 by Liz Caskey

Glorious Produce: The fertile Central Valley north and south of Santiago pumps out tons of fresh produce year round. In Santiago alone there are 400 farmers markets in addition to central depots like Lo Valledor and the Vega Central. In all the cities and towns, there is always a market hawking the freshest fruits and veggies at HALF the price of any supermarket. We are so spoiled here to have such abundant food coming from the countryside. The variety of foods is staggering: cherries, apricots, asparagus, strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, Chilean papayas, lucuma, apples, lemons, oranges, grapefruit, fresh artichokes, figs, chard, corn, half a dozen types of tomatoes, a dozen types of avocado, zucchini, eggplant, okra, peppers, chilies, faba beans, sweet potato, tons of greens from watercress to wild arugula and dandelion, the list is endless. Needless to say, having a whole foods diet here is pretty easy.

Hilly Topography: I love the contours of the rolling hills of the coastal mountains and Andean foot hills. Each bend in a road reveals a new micro valley (hence, all the good wine!). In the winter and spring, the hills turn emerald green with the rain. By February and March, the end of summer, they have turned a toasty color of caramel from the lack of rain. Last year in California as we drove from LA to Napa, we were blown away by the similarities in the topography of the California coast and Chile. Especially around San Luis Obispo, we could have sworn we were in the San Antonio valley and coast.

Temperature Oscillation: It may hit 95F at 4pm when the mercury is at its hottest in the summer time but by 10pm, the temperature will have plummeted to 55F. Perfect weather for sleeping with a soft comforter and an open window. It always, always cools off . This is one of the reasons for the great wines in Chile–and also why you must layer, layer, layer when dressing since you will put on and take off clothing depending on the time of day.

No Humidity: Growing up in eastern Pennsylvania, mugginess was part of the summer equation. I never really noticed it since A/C is a way of life. Upon arriving in Chile, I could hardly believe how comfortable it was to live in a climate with little to no humidity (minus some dry skin on occasion). Delightful in a word. Most Chileans who grow up in Santiago do not handle heat and humidity well. When my husband and I have been in Brazil or Florida in the summer, he just dies. The only way to beat the heat is to head into the A/C or strip down to a swimsuit. Not the case in Chile, just find some shade and instantly 10 degrees less.

Snow is Optional: Ok, I will admit it. I am so over cold winters and living in snow. As much as I am visualizing snow on Christmas Eve for our upcoming trip to the US (a nostalgic thing), the thought of shoveling, driving, and freezing every time I walk outside, umm, no thanks. My blood has gotten thin living down here and I like warmer weather. Even in the winter in Chile, it rarely drops below 50 for the day time high even though there’s abundant snow in the mountains. So if you want to play in the snow, all you do is go “up”.

No Bugs: Yes, that’s right. No bugs. That’s why you will hardly ever see screens in the Central valley. With the exception of some annoying flies and the occasional bee, you don’t see too many flying insects. A good fly swatter is essential.

Spring: One of my favorite times of year, the trees and orchards blossom into beautiful shades of white, pink, and fuscia, with colorful wildflowers like California poppies dotting the roadsides. The hills are still green from the winter rains, the sun feels a little warmer, the air smells fresh and sweet, birds begin to sing their praises, and asparagus and artichokes (quite possibly my favorite veggies) start to flood the markets.

Summer: Delicious in a word. The hot days, cool nights, and ample sunshine are just exquisite. I never, ever want to travel too far during the summers, especially since Santiago slows down and the traffic diminishes. It is balmy, breezy, and just gorgeous. Also the estación de la fruta, fruit season, when melons, berries, cherries, nectarines, and peaches abound. Literally on every Chilean table for dessert is a simple, tempting fruit platter.

Fall: I love fall because of two things: grape harvest in the vineyards and figs. Oh, those figs! Fig trees are in many backyards in Chile and in March yield tiny, sweet, earthy fruit that I make into my famous chutney, grill, stuff and roast with goat cheese, wrap in Serrano ham. As the harvest comes starts in wine country, the vines turn deep shades of gold and crimson red and the air fills with the sweet, musky aromas of wine fermentation. The light seems to become more golden too.

Winter: Winter is always hard for me because I miss the light. Short days feel like prison! In Chile however, winter means rain and I adore rainy days. I love sloshing in my Patagonia rain gear to the markets, then coming home to make a soothing cazuela, or pop open a delicious, soul warming Cabernet. After the rain, the Andes look so vibrant in freshly colored snow and the city air reminds me of the South with cool, fresh scents of invigorating eucalyptus and pine.

While Santiago and the Central Valley are amazing to visit year round (we have lots of Texan clients who love to beat the heat in July/August), other parts of Chile are ideal. Although the days may be shorter, in places like Patagonia, the winds stop and sun shines so you can do excursions in kayak, horseback riding on snowy mountains, and while in the Torres del Paine, you feel like you OWN the park. Atacama is sunshine year round as is Mendoza. But take me out of my Mediterranean climate–never. Maybe just a temporary relocation to California, Italy, Spain, South Africa, Greece, or Turkey.

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